My work
takes me to interesting places … and sometimes I get the chance to explore and
admire the rich heritage of Bengal. A few months back – July 2025 to be precise
– I accompanied some of our students to the Hooghly Imambara on a Study Tour. The
Imambara – with its impressive two-storied structure stands within an expansive
courtyard which is flanked with corridors on either side. The complex is
dominated by a majestic clock at the centre of the twin towers over the
entrance. It is an impressive Islamic heritage of Bengal … and a testimony to
the architectural advancement of the time.
Before this trip, I had no
real idea of the difference between an Imambara and a Mosque. Now I know the
former is an assembly hall (Majlis)
for Shia Muslims to commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussain in the battle of
Karbala; while the latter is a place for all Muslims to offer daily prayers (Namaz). However, some large complexes,
like the Hooghly Imambara, serve as both – there are dedicated prayer halls for
Namaz and also an assembly for Majlis.
The origins of the
Imambara can be traced back to Mohammad Aga Motahar, a wealthy Persian
merchant who came to Hooghly, in the early 18th century for his salt
business. He built a one-storied house on the west bank of the River Hooghly
and settled with his family. In 1717, he dedicated it to the Almighty and thus transformed
his home into a religious place named “Nazargah
Hossein.” His
son-in-law, Mirza Saleh-ud-din, added extensions such as the “Tazia Khana” in 1735. A ‘Tazia’ is a symbolic replica of the
mausoleum of Imam Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet, which is carried in Muharram
processions. Eventually Mohammad Aga Motahar’s humble residence became the
present-day grand Hooghly Imambara. The word ‘Imambara’ means “the angel’s
abode” … and the doors of the Hooghly Imambara are open to people of all faiths.
Muhammad Mohsin passed away in 1812 leaving behind his entire fortune for the
construction and maintenance of the Imambara. However, the construction of the Imambara
started in 1841 as the Trustees (Mutwallis)
appointed by Mohsin were corrupt and could not follow the path shown by him.
Several Mutwallis were appointed
thereafter but all were dishonest. Eventually, the Government took charge of
the Imambara and Syed Keramat Ali, an architect from Jaunpur, Rajasthan, was
appointed as the Mutwalli who started
the work of construction. The work was complete in 1861 after two decades
fulfilling Mohsin’s vision. Finally, a committee was formed in 1876 to take
care of Imambara.
Unfortunately, there is no trace of the former structure except a reference by Baboo Badan Chunder Choudhury, the first Assistant Surgeon of the Imambara Hospital in 1842 to George Toynbee, the Collector and Magistrate of Hooghly District. Toynbee notes in his A Sketch of the Administration of the Hooghly District (1888):
The old Imambara building, on the site of which the
present buildings stand, was an ordinary one-storied building. … The sight it
now presents is quite different. The old houses and buildings have been
destroyed, and their owners have gone to other places (133).
The lofty doorway of the
Imambara leads into a huge courtyard with a beautifully decorated rectangular
tank in the middle. The long corridors are lined with numerous rooms that served
as madrasa classrooms. The main
prayer hall, the ‘Zaridalan’ – with
its stunning black-and-white checkered marble floors, Islamic calligraphy on
walls and elaborate chandeliers – is a major architectural attraction of the
Imambara. However, photography is prohibited here. Colourful lanterns and
glasses can be spotted throughout the Imambara. The bell and clock-work machine
of the Imambara were installed in 1852. The clock was purchased from
a London-based company, Ms. Black & Hurray Co. and was installed in the
centre of the tower. It is accessible via a spiral staircase. There are
three bells of varying sizes / weights that require manual winding once a week with
a key that weighs an astonishing 20 kg. The winding steps inside the twin
towers – separate for men and women – lead to the top which offers panoramic
views of the Hooghly River and the Jubilee Bridge. The other point of interest
in the Imambara is Sun Clock located in the open backyard on the eastern most
side of the premises beside the Hooghly River. The clock shows the correct time
from dawn till dusk on a sunny day.
Hooghly Imambara is an aesthetic masterpiece that stands as a timeless blend of faith and grandeur.