'Bhukailash' ... the Abode of Shiva

 

Kidderpore, located on a bend of the Hooghly River as it flows to the Bay of Bengal, owes its name to three distinct sources. The most enchanting of these three tales is drawn from the Islamic figure of Al-Khidr or Khizr, the wanderer who appears as a guide. Before this area became a port suburb, it was inhabited by boatmen, fishermen and traders … people whose lives / livelihoods were closely tied to the river tides. Another account links the name ‘Kidderpore’ to Colonel Robert Kyd (1746–1793), a British East India Company officer who resided in Shalimar (Howrah), just opposite Kidderpore, where he established the Royal Botanic Garden. He also possessed land in Kidderpore during the late-18^th century and perhaps the area came to be known as ‘Kyd-pore’ (Kyd’s place) after him. Finally, ‘Kidderpore’ may also be an Anglicized pronunciation of ‘Kedarpore’ - the Land of Kedar (Shiva) after the historic Bhukailash Temple Complex built by Raja Joynarayan Ghosal in 1781. The name “Bhukailash” is derived from a ‘Bhu’ (Earth) and ‘Kailash’ (the Abode of Shiva).

Walking through Kidderpore today as part of ‘The Bridgekeeper’s Tale: A Walking Tour’ … my ninth walk with Crosswalks brought together these stories to show how places acquire meaning across the passage of time. Hidden in the labyrinth of Kidderpore, unknown to most people of Kolkata, is a huge temple complex that houses two of the largest Shivalinga in Eastern India. And, visiting this place was my long-time wish ... now fulfilled by Crosswalks!! 

The history of the Bhukailash Temples goes back to mid-18^th century Bengal when the influence of the Nawab of Bengal was declining after the Battle of Plassey (1757). Taking advantage of the changing power dynamics in Bengal, wealthy families of Calcutta started engaging themselves in administrative and financial activities of the British East India Company. Gokul Chandra Ghoshal, who hailed from such a family, joined the Company as a ‘banian’ (native business assistant) to Harry Verelst, a Company administrator who later became the Governor of Bengal (1767–1769). Gokul Ghoshal progressed from his informal advisory position to a formal administrative post by rendering expert service as a revenue collector for the Company. He was appointed as the Diwan of Chittagong by Harry Verelst and served as the chief native revenue officer (1761-64). He grew influential owing to his connections with Company officials and even gained salt trading rights despite the Company’s monopoly on salt production and trade in Bengal. While revising Land Settlement for revenue collection, Ghoshal dispossessed several Zamindars and seized their land for himself. He consolidated his acquired lands into a unified Zamindari estate in Kidderpore. The Bhukailash estate was thus formally established … its name derived from ‘Bhu-Kailash’ - the earthly abode of Lord Shiva. 

Joynarayan Ghoshal, the son of Gokul Ghoshal’s brother, Krishna Chand Ghoshal, inherited the Bhukailash estate and also received the title of ‘Maharaja Bahadur’ from Warren Hastings. He built the Bhukailash Rajbari and the adjacent temple complex in 1781. The complex has two Bengal aatchala-style twin Shiva temples facing each other across an open space adjacent a large lake - the Shiv-Ganga. 

Shiv-Ganga Lake of Bhukailash Temple Complex

Each temple has a triple-arched entrance and enshrines a Shivalinga. On the east of the Shiv-Ganga is the west-facing Raktakamaleshwar Shiva lingam in the name of Joynarayan’s mother and on the west of the Shiv-Ganga is the east-facing Krishnachandreswar in the name of his father Krishna Chandra Ghoshal. The open space between the temples has a black stone statue of Nandi - the bull of Lord Shiva. The foundation plaque of the Raktakamaleshwar Temple says that the temple was built in 1702 Sakabda (1780 A.D). The Krishnachandreswar Temple does not have any such plaque but it may be assumed that it was also built during the same time. 

There are several other temples in the complex – the most prominent being the Patit-Pabon Durga Temple. She is the household deity of the Bhukailash Zamindars.

The Durga Temple 

The Goddess 

Canons and other deities in the Temple Complex

In the early 19^th-century, Joynarayan Ghoshal relocated to Varanasi, owing to health issues, delegating estate responsibilities to his son Kali Shankar Ghoshal. Subsequent generations extended the lineage preserving Zamindari influence in local administration till the mid-19th century. Despite challenges of inheritance partitions and increasing revenue demands under British policies, the assets in Kidderpore endured beyond the 19^th century. However, at present, the Bhukailash Rajbari and the Temples face an existential crisis. Among the present owners of the estate, Satya Dilip Ghoshal and his wife, Mintu Ghoshal, were approached by local promoters to give up their portion of the Bhukailash Rajbari and move out. All his other relatives had apparently agreed but Satya Ghoshal refused to give up his legacy … a property listed as Grade-I Heritage by the Kolkata Municipal Corporation. 

The Plaque ... a Glimpse into History

A former head clerk at Kidderpore College, Satya Dilip Ghoshal is adamant that “should we give in to the promoter’s demands and leave, the Rajbari will cease to exist”. His daughter, Antara agrees:

“Once my parents leave, the entire area will be converted into some sort of illegal construction project. The Rajbari will be no more. I’ve spent all my formative years there. For me, our house isn’t just a part of our family’s legacy. It’s also a part of the culture of Kolkata and Bengali Rajbaris in general. That’s why, even though my parents feel threatened, we feel they should stand their ground and stay. We want to hang on to our house at all costs.” (Source) 

In the courtyard of the Rajbari 

The completely dilapidated 'Nat Mandir' of the Rajbari 

The towering pillars bear testimony to a glorious past....