Saraswati Puja has a special place in the hearts of Bengalis, who celebrate baro mashe tero parbon … the festival is dedicated to the Goddess of arts, music, knowledge and wisdom. Each festival has its unique rituals which showcase the cultural heritage of Bengal, especially when it comes to food — Saraswati Puja is Culinary Heritage celebration as well. There are two distinct gastronomical rituals, passed down through generations, which distinguish Ghoti and Bangal families during Saraswati Puja. Bangal families, particularly from Dhaka/ Bikrampur, celebrate this day with the first taste of ilish (hilsa), Ghoti families observe the occasion by cooking a special ritualistic dish, Gota Sheddho.
In certain Bengali homes Jora Ilish (a pair of hilsa fish) is coated
with raw turmeric, sindoor and mustard
oil, ceremonially placed on a ritualistic bamboo tray (kulo) and offered to Goddess Saraswati, accompanied by blowing conch
shells. The fish are cooked and served. The months following Durga Puja / Bijoya
Dashami and Saraswati Puja are the breeding season for hilsa fish. Hence, the
fish is not consumed anymore in Bangal
households. The return of the hilsa after a long hiatus on Saraswati Puja is
celebrated with festive joy. After all, for Bangals,
“Ilish is not just a food, it is an emotion”. Meanwhile, in a Ghoti household, a special dish is
prepared on Saraswati Puja evening - Gota Sheddho, a simple, wholesome
vegetable stew of winter vegetables that are slow cooked whole (gota) without spices (sheddho / boiled). This ritual is part
of a folk festival closely connected to the seasonal transition from winter to
summer. Saraswati Puja is held on the bright fifth of Magh month (January-February)
and the day after is Sheetal Sasthi
(Cool Sixth). The day is marked as Arandhan (no cooking) when the kitchen
is dedicated to the worship of Goddess Sasthi. The Silnora (Spice Grinder/Masher made of stone) is wrapped is sacred
red cloth and worshipped as a representation of the Goddess. Gota Sheddho is kept overnight and families are
served ‘cold’ (Sheetal) the next day
with panta bhaat (fermented
rice) and a drizzling of mustard oil. This dish is believed to provide
protection against seasonal ailments, notably chicken pox.
Goddess Sasthi is the
guardian deity of fertility and protector of children, worshipped on the sixth
day after the birth of a child and also on the sixth day of lunar fortnights in
Bengal. A popular legend narrates the story of a greedy woman who used to eat
all the food in the house and blame it on their cat. Goddess Sasthi, who rides
a black cat, was enraged and took away her children. The woman fasted to
appease the Goddess, and her seven children were returned on Sasthi (sixth)
day. Another legend from Bengal, specifically relates to Sheetala Sasthi: In a Bengal village lived a Brahmin and his wife
who were childless. One day, the young wife went to the river where her feet
slipped and from her stomach a hollow gourd appeared. Upon setting this gourd
in oil, seven sons were born to her. After they grew up, the Brahman married
them to seven daughters of a Brahmin. One winter (Magh), the old mother-in-law bathed
in hot water and told the daughters-in-law to cook a hot meal for her. The next
day all the seven daughters-in-law and the housecat were found dead. The old
woman realized her mistake and was grief-stricken. Goddess Sasthi appeared
before her and asked her to make amends. The old woman appeased the Goddess and
the dead came back to life. On Sheetal Sasthi,
Goddess Sasthi is worshipped in Bengal; there is no evidence that Goddess Sheetala
is worshipped with cold food in Magh. Goddess Sheetala/Sitala has been
worshipped as the deity of epidemic diseases like cholera and small-pox that are
common in the Indian sub-continent. She is regarded as a ‘minor deity’ from a
sociological point of view, as she is traditionally worshipped by the small Savara
community in Bengal. Goddess Sheetala is regarded as an incarnation of Shakti, who
appeared from a sacrificial fire during a global epidemic. She is usually depicted
in red sari, holding a broom, a winnowing fan and a pitcher of water - all
objects symbolizing cleanliness and purification. Her vahana (vehicle) is the donkey. In some legends, she is accompanied
by Jvarasura (Demon of Fever) who emerged from the divine sweat of Mahadev to cool
down fever. In Bengal, the legend of Goddess Sheetala and Goddess Sasthi align
on Sheetal Sasthi - which is the day
after Saraswati Puja.
The association of the
worship of Goddess Sasthi on Sheetal Sasthi
(Magh Sixth) and the popular worship of Goddess Sheetala with cold food in March/April
(after Holi) renders a mixing of identities - and marks the emergence of a new aspect
of Goddess Sheetala. Both Sheetala and Sasthi are protective maternal figures
in Bengal folk tradition who protect from illnesses - while Sheetala guards
against infectious diseases, Sasthi specifically protects children.
Meanwhile, on Sheetal Sasthi, Ghoti families enjoy Gota Sheddho while Bangals feast on Jora Ilish. The two delectable dishes from Ghotis and Bangals of Bengal are not directly related to the rituals of Saraswati Puja. But for a Bengali, food is the ultimate celebration of life, and the dishes … a legacy of Bengal culinary finesse. They are also the reminder of a ‘divide’ rooted in the post-1947 Partition Migration … and remain a cherished, playful, hilarious cultural conflict over food, dialect and football that energize Bengali social life, especially in Kolkata.









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